December, 2018
And just like that, we were off from Rome to Florence to settle in for the second part of our trip. We decided to make Florence our home base for the next 7 days. By high speed train, Roma Termini, we arrived in Florence in approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes. We had rented an AirBnB close to the main train and bus station, as we had planned for several day trips from Florence. This renovated historical loft was perfect for us. Although not spacious, it offered everything we needed and was close to a market – surprise! If you haven’t stayed at an AirBnB before, use this coupon to save up to $70 CDN off your first stay.
Within a 10-minute walk we arrived from the train station to our AirBnB. There is no elevator and it is located a couple (well more than a couple), flights up! After we settled in, we made our way over to the Mercato di San Lorenzo. This famous market was less than a 5-minute walk and offered indoor and outdoor stalls of art, leather goods and various markets of regional food. It was perfect to pick up food essentials from local vendors located on the main floor. Venture your way upstairs and you will feel like you have walked into an entirely different market. You will find various food stalls with international cuisines, a wine bar and endless desserts including cannoli and gelato. We grabbed a bottle of wine from The Wine House and some small tapas and enjoyed a late lunch. We also picked up a bottle of Wine for Christmas Day dinner at the AirBnB here too. The merchants were helpful with wine selection for us newbies to Italian wine, because here in Tuscany, wine is a serious matter.
After a pisolino, we decided to venture out for dinner, choosing not to go too far. We grabbed a table in the enclosed outdoor patio at Mamma Napoli. We both ordered pizza and shared a bottle of wine. Service was great, food impeccable and the wine delicious. We definitely recommend checking this place out.
Here were some of our go-to spots in Florence.
Plazza del Duomo – You can’t really come to Florence and not visit this place. You can easily see the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Flore from every part of the city, but you really need to experience it up-close and personal. You can climb the Duomo with 463 steps to be rewarded with breath-taking views of the city below you. This makes for an easy landmark in this very walkable city, allowing us to effortlessly find our way back to our AirBnB, which was just around the corner. At Christmas, the city streets and plazzas take on a new look and feel with glittering ornaments reflecting off of the cobblestone streets. We personally enjoy traveling during the ‘off-peak’ season, as the entire trip has a different vibe.
Arno River – This is known as one of the most prominent rivers in Italy. It divides the city of Florence in two; one with the Duomo and David and the other with an untouched less touristy vibe. You will want to ensure you explore the river walk making your way to the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge known for jewelry, gelato, and those distinctive buildings you have seen in photos. This area is crowded, so we recommend going earlier in the day or later in the evening to stroll this icon.
If you enjoy art then be sure to consider The Accademia Gallery, home of the masterpiece ‘David’, or the Uffizi Museum, home to priceless works of art from the Italian Renaissance. There will be lines and people though, so be prepared and consider purchasing tickets in advance. Note there is a replica of David in the Plazza della Signoria which you can see for free without lines and that was good enough for us.
Palazzo Vecchio Museum and Tower – This is known to be the main symbol of civil power for the city. If time travel were possible, you would think you took a trip back into history where you find Roman ruins, a Medieval Fortress, Renaissance Chambers and paintings. We loved this museum and adored the secret routes we discovered along the way. If you can time it right, then I suggest reaching the top of the tower close to sunset where you can watch the setting sun dance against red tile roofs. Truly unforgettable views of this city.
Walk the City – Florence is a very walkable city as you will not find a metro like Rome. Walk, get lost and explore the city by foot. You will feel so refreshed and likely stumble across some of your own hidden gems along the way. All that walking will make the pizza and pasta taste that much better, and will help to burn off some of the gelato calories.
Florence is known for shopping and leather goods. So, if you are looking for a purse, shoes, belt or a special handbag you will find endless stores selling them. We didn’t buy anything, but enjoyed window shopping. We stumbled across Desii Vintage, which is a boutique second-hand clothing store showcasing vintage clothes, shoes, accessories and all things travel especially branded luggage. An interesting little place to explore.
Piazzale Michelangelo – Remember the other side of the river? The less touristy side? You will want to venture over here, especially to this square. Located in the Oltrarno district, it is well known as it offers panoramic views of Florence. You can see everything from here, from the Duomo to sprawling vineyards and castles in the hills of Tuscany. Perhaps grab your favourite drink, a bottle of vino or prosecco while soaking in the sunset with your own happy hour toast.
Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte – You will find this basilica atop one of the highest points in Florence. Located about a 10-minute walk behind Piazzale Michelangelo you will find this place of solitude. We toured inside, lighting a candle for my sister on Christmas Day. Surrounding the church, you will find many graves, tombs, cross statues and flowers – the Cemetery of the Holy Doors.
Boboli Gardens – If you decided to take in Uffizi Museum then you will want to ensure you added this onto the tour. You can also just opt for entrance to the gardens alone, which are located on a massive hill behind the Pitti Palace. This is the perfect spot for, you guessed it, a picnic. Bring some of the local goods from the market and settle in here taking in the lush landscape or order a pizza to go from Gusta Pizza, located about two blocks away and enjoy a pizza picnic. They make a mean Margherita pizza.
Finally, we will share some our best dining experiences from our few days in Florence.
Christmas Eve we had reservations at Trattoria Za Za, where we enjoyed the most glorious four course dinner. Again, we dined outside in the enclosed outdoor booth, which was surprisingly busy and full of atmosphere, with a mix of locals and tourists. Some of the best pasta with truffles was had here on this trip. D discovered the most epic antipasto of Coccoli here, which I am so jealous I didn’t order. However, he was willing to share these fried pizza dough balls combined with stracchino and prosciutto crudo. This is a must have Florentine appetizer! Although the reviews of this restaurant were mixed, we had a memorable dinner despite my disappointment in steak Florentine coming more rare than medium for me, which is traditionally how it’s done. I didn’t love it, but that one is on me not them.
Osteria Pepo – Literally located around the corner from our AirBnB, was this little gem. Since it is a smaller venue, we recommend reservations in advance. They offer traditional Tuscan dishes with a solid wine selection. The home-made lasagna and ricotta cheese and spinach Ravioli with butter and sage is noteworthy. Please try the must have Coccoli here as a starter and finish by sharing the chocolate cake.
La Prosciutteria Firenze – Head here for an impressive charcuterie board. This little vintage venue tucked half way down the street serves some of the best Tuscan food and wine. Enjoy a platter of finely curated meats, cheeses with sauces and olive oils from a small farm in Tuscany. For quality food, wine with a unique atmosphere, La Prosciutteria takes the salami.
Antico Noe – When we were wandering our way through the streets of Florence we stumbled across this sandwich shop. Grabbing a beer and a table outside, we waited for our paninis to arrive. This was one of the best paninis I have ever had. A combination of prosciutto, arugula, brie and a walnut sauce made for one incredible sandwich.
Trattoria Angiolino – This is a fabulous option on the other side of the river. Make your way here to experience this superb family run restaurant. It offers a tempting menu of Tuscan classics with a quaint interior. Typical Tuscan charm on the inside with vaulted ceilings and stone walls with simple, traditional and comforting dishes to choose from. This is an authentic, reasonably priced venue that is on my must return list for future trips.
Since Florence is ideally located, it was the perfect base for multiple day trips including Venice and some smaller towns in the Tuscan Countryside. Interested in exploring these areas with me? Come check out my blogs on these spots.