December, 2014
Welcome to the land of siestas where everyone is enjoying life, taking in moments and indulging in the finest wines and tapas Europe has to offer. I actually adored Spain and this was D’s first international trip overseas. I had to ensure that I planned the ultimate trip as I wanted him to fall in love with Europe too. We had 8 days from December 26 to January 2, 2014 with December 25th being our travel day. I decided we would make Madrid our ‘home’ base to explore the capital of Spain, but also discover some small hidden gems on day trips.
Since this was D’s first trip overseas, I decided on booking a hotel rather than an AirBnB. I wanted it to feel familiar for him. We stayed at a 3-star hotel in heart of Madrid, Hotel II Castillas, located within 5 minutes to the Puerta del Sol. It was the perfect location to be within steps to the metro, historic, tourist and main shopping districts of the capital. D was surprised how small the rooms were, but welcome to Europe. When exploring Europe, who needs more than a shower and a bed really? The hotel included a gourmet breakfast each morning which was the ideal fuel to start the day. As you have likely discovered from my blog, we tend to save on accommodations and spend money on food and experiences during our travels. The hotel was clean, comfortable, offered breakfast and free wifi and everything we needed for this trip.
I will admit I didn’t really know what to anticipate flying on Christmas Day, but travel was smooth and we arrived early in the morning on December 26th. I had chosen the hotel closest to the Sol Metro station as it is easily accessible via public transportation directly from the airport. With two carry-ons and a backpack each, we made our way from the airport to the heart of Madrid. After checking into our hotel, with the entire day ahead of us, we decided to power through and began to explore the city. For many reasons, I had chosen the Puerta del Sol location, but mostly because it was walking distance to the majority of the areas we wanted to see.
We ventured out and headed toward the Plaza Mayor, which was once the centre of Old Madrid. I feel like it is one of the most well-known plazas in Spain as it opens to an expansive space with stunning architecture, historical tales, Christmas markets in December, and arches leading to laneways out into the labyrinth. This plaza is certainly the epicenter of Madrid Life! I just loved how the wrought-iron balconies provide the most stunning backdrop for this square. We spent some time exploring the Christmas markets here and made a note that we would come back at night to see the festive lights. From here we made our way to the Mercado de San Miguel – a covered market offering local food, delicacies and wine while you explored all in the most elegant ambiance. It is well known as a monument for Spanish cuisine and a meeting point for food lovers! I was in heaven! We grabbed a glass of Rioja wine and began to explore the food, dessert and drink stands. Here you will find the finest of Iberian hams, the freshest seafood and the most divine cheeses. We decided on having lunch here, our first experience with the highest-quality Spanish tapas. To this day, this is my favourite gastronomic markets from all our trips. We headed back to our hotel since it was so close, decided on a siesta and then freshened up before heading out for the traditional late night European dinner. We began to explore and decided on the Tapas & Mas restaurant to enjoy some classic tapas with a bottle of Rioja in a unique setting with brick walls and a warm vibe.
Now, let’s dive into the top 10 things to do in Madrid.
El Retiro Park – It was within walking distance from our hotel and it’s one of the largest parks in the city. The weather was idyllic and warm in December and we enjoyed the getaway from the hustle of the main city by escaping here for part of the day. There are numerous trails and gardens to explore and of course you can row on the Lago Grande as well. While you are here you will want to take in the Palacio de Cristal which was built in 1887. It is mostly made of glass and set in an iron framework. An incredible green space in such a large vibrant city.
Gran Via – You will want to take some time to explore this urban esplanade in Madrid. This street is commonly known as the street that never sleeps. The Gran Via offers shopping, famous Metropolis buildings, and an epic night life scene. If you have been to New York just think of it as a European Fifth Avenue.
Temple of Debod – It’s an ancient Egyptian temple that was dismantled and re-built in the centre of Spain. You will locate this temple in the Plaza de Espana at the end of the Gran Via street. Take time to explore this temple that was gifted to Spain by the Egyptian government. Also stroll through the inner crypts of the temple itself – simply fascinating.
Royal Palace of Madrid – If you fancy regal history, you will want to visit this royal residence. It is one of the largest palaces in all of Europe and is officially the residence of the Spanish royal family. Be prepared for long lines to get inside and I would recommend pre-booking in advance. It’s quite impressive and looking at it from the outside really won’t give it justice with over a million square feet and over 3400 rooms. When you are done ensure you save some time to climb the bell tower of the Almudena Cathedral, located in front of the Royal Palace. The tower on the right-hand side of its façade is known as Mariana or Gallegos, as the bells it houses were donated by the Galicians: Santa María la Real de la Almudena, Santa María de la Paloma, Santa María de Atocha and Santa María de la Flor de Lis. The carillon is located in the left tower, overlooking Calle de Bailén. This is truly magical to see and the view of the city is fabulous from the top.
Take in a Flamenco Show – You will want to experience this key part of Spain’s culture. Flamenco is one of the most iconic forms of dance and truly magical to see how art, dance, history and storytelling come alive. The options are endless which could be a show on its own or to experience a show combined with a traditional Spanish dinner. You had me at festive dancing and authentic cuisine. We attended the La Cueva de Lola which is just a few minutes form the Plaza Mayor inside a 17th century cave. Here you have the option of dining with tapas or typical Spanish dishes or just enjoy the show with a glass of wine or beer of choice. To be in Spain, is to live the flamenco experience.
El Rastro Market – If you are lucky enough to time your trip properly you can visit this most popular open-air flea market. It is held every single Sunday and public holiday during the year located along the Plaza de Cassorro and Ribera de Curtidores. We easily spent an entire morning here inching our way along the maze of street vendors hosting clothes, luggage, records, photos, faux designer purses and so much more. Due to the vast number of people, be aware of pickpockets. D scored some bufandas and I also grabbed a bufanda and a hat – our souvenirs from this trip. You will work up an appetite after shopping the market and this upbeat La Latina neighborhood is great as you will find the maze of narrow lanes lined with tapas bars, restaurants and cantinas. I am certain you can find somewhere with an outdoor patio along the way.
Iglesia de San Gines – This is one of the oldest churches in Madrid and if offers some fine paintings. It is a short distance from the Plaza Mayor. It truly is a hidden gem and is deceptively big. The church exterior is unusually designed in having an atrium enclosed by railings on Calle Arenal, which leads into the main courtyard of the church. The interior is laid out according to a Latin cross with a nave and two aisles separated by semicircular arches. Just down a narrow lane behind the church, you will find the Chocolateria de San Gines which is famous for chocolate con churros. This is truthfully the ideal Madrid indulgence at any hour of the day especially while on vacation. If you haven’t experienced these deep-fried Spanish donuts with chocolate you don’t know what you are missing.
Museo del Prado – This is a gallery for art lovers and founded in 1819. It will give you an understanding to some of the works from painters such as El Bosco, El Greco, Velazquez and Goya to name a few. If you love museums – just know that most of them are closed on Mondays. There is also free entry, from 6-8 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday and 5-7 p.m. on Sundays. Just a bit of advice while planning.
Plaza Mayor – I know I mentioned it already, but this plaza needs to be on your list. This is where life comes alive with outdoor tables from cafes and restaurants where you can watch Salamanca life dance in front of you. You will be amazed by the way the sun dazzles against the sandstone turning it to gold making this plaza fit for a Mayor indeed. Its filled with cafes, shops and restaurants, but choose wisely as you will find tourist traps in this area. This plaza really is one of the most beautiful city squares and acts as a gateway to the old-world elegance of Madrid’s historic neighborhoods.
Explore the markets – The historic Mercado de San Miguel or the Mercado de San Anton will provide endless options of gourmet food, cooking demos, and a terrace bar with endless wine. We just loved ordering anything from caviar to chocolate at the counter-bars here and exploring everything these culinary cultural markets had to offer.
Stroll the streets and just get lost – I know this sounds like pretty basic advice, but it is honestly one of my favorite things to do in Europe when we travel. I love the cobbled stone and windy streets discovering where they lead and finding some authentic parts of Madrid along the way.
Now we know that any blog of mine will contain all things food. Although we spent the majority of time eating at the two markets above, there are some other hidden gems you will want to explore. I always recommend the meal of the day as it is the most cost-effective option. Here is some of my best suggestions when exploring Madrid.
Cava Baja 17 – A perfect upscale tapas place serving quality Spanish food. It is located on a busy street full of restaurants and tapas bars. There are endless options along this street for food, but this was perfect for some tapas and your favourite glass of vino.
Taberna del Chato – It’s within walking distance from Puerta del Sol and offers a varied menu of Spanish portions and bite sized appetizers. The prices are unbeatable – great variety, excellent quality and delicious.
Naia Restaurant – Here you will find a delicious and sophisticated take on traditional Spanish food. This restaurant has an emphasis on natural ingredients, healthy food and exciting tastes. They have an epic wine list to complement the food and we left the restaurant with the feeling that if we actually lived here we would come here every week for a date night.
