May, 2006
Often people long for the Côte d’Azur in France, but Cap Ferret is the country’s best kept secret for a windswept, pine-covered peninsula off the coast of the southwest of France. Give up the glamour of the big city for a day for the simpler things: rustic charm, blue-shuttered wooden cottages, freshly shucked oysters, all where the glittering waters of the Arcachon Bay meet the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. It is also worth the drive around the Bassin to the Bay or to take the ferry across to the Bay to this little coastal town.
Making a perfect day trip from Bordeaux, the city streets will wind to narrow roads where the air changes to the smell of the beach and the trees dance a little more in the ocean breeze. Arcachon Bay is a little coastal town with Victorian style architecture and villas and fine sandy beaches. From this bay, you have the view of Cap Ferret, not to be confused with Cap Ferrat which is flashy chateau-a-fied idyll on France’s Cote d’Azur, lined with celebrities and famous for all its’ visitors. Cap Ferret is my type of town, unassuming and serene, offering a unique French beach experience.
Arcachon – The town is rather small so it can be enjoyed by walking, but why not rent a bike and tour the coastline enjoying the maritime landscape making your way to the famous Dune du Pyla, Europe’s tallest sand dune.
While in town, stroll along the beautiful promenade next to the main beach, hosting restaurants and boutique shops. Of course, you will want to venture to the main market, Marché d’Arcachon, which runs each Tuesday through Saturday. Here you will find local delicacies which are perfect for lunch! Enjoy what they call the summer city! From there, you venture your way to the “Winter City” where you can truly experience the Victorian architecture, exquisite villas, especially Villa Teresa, Villa Bremontier and Villa Alexandre Dumas to name a few. Passing from the summer to the winter city, ensure to make time for the Parc Mauresque, a charming park with a panoramic view. It’s an ideal spot for a picnic with some goodies you grabbed from the market perhaps? Next to this park you will find the “Eiffel Tower” of Arcachon, the Sainte Cecile Observatory 25m high. Climb to the top for an incredible view of the bay – this is open daily and is free!
No trip to Arcachon would be complete without visiting the Dune du Pilat, which is 100m high and 2.7 km long, towering above the Atlantic Coast on one side and the forest on the other. You can access the top by the staircase along with some climbing in the sand where you will be delighted with the most spectacular view. Be sure to pack water, especially if traveling in peak season as the unrelenting sun can be intense paired with the physical activity of the climb. At the top, we saw people sunbathing, having lunch, kids rolling around in the sand down the dune and those sandboarding….like snowboarding, but on sand! From here you can see the Cap Ferret lighthouse, a beacon for ships! Again, you can access and climb the Dune for free!
Cap Ferret – Welcome to the coast, often referred to as the ‘Cape Cod of France’, or the ‘up and coming Hamptons’. It remains a quaint little beach village, the home of ostréiculture, oyster farming, and of course the views of the Bay and towering Dune of Pilat! If you want the best view of the Dune from this side, then head to La Pointe du Cap Ferret on the southwestern tip of the peninsula.
Of course, spend some time visiting the Cap Ferret Lighthouse which is located inland and not on the water’s edge. Climb the 259 stairs for a 360-degree perspective with 270 degrees being stunning water edge views.
There is just something about strolling this little town with the mimosa-scented breeze looking at fishing huts perched on stilts while you are thinking of dinner. Perhaps oysters pulled just moments before from the cool water in the huts served with a splash of delightful white wine?
We have been busy climbing the Eiffel tower of Arcachon, the Dune and now the lighthouse, we have earned a glorious dinner.
If oysters are what you have been craving, then head to the Chez Hortense which appeared in the French movie “Les Petits Mouchoirs”. This upscale seafood eatery is located near the La Pointe therefore offering the best view of the Dune. Oysters, garlic mussels and sweet grilled lobster – the options are endless and the portions generous.
Chez Boulan – Marvelous oysters, ocean breeze, specular views, fair prices and cold chilled white wine – what else could you possibly need?
Chez Pascal – A not-to-miss-bakery, famous for its baguettes and the dune blanches. These bite-size pastries of flaky dough, filled with an airy cream and topped with crystalized sugar are mouthwatering. You can choose from multiple cream fillings including Nutella or salted caramel – the perfect snack to take back on your road trip to Bordeaux or Paris!
