October, 2015
Looking for a self-guided tour? Check out the best of what the south-west of Ireland has to offer with my recommendations on where to stay. Fly into Dublin and grab your car, the smallest car possible, at the airport (Sixt Rentals) and head out for your ultimate Ireland road trip! Note – If we were to do this again (lesson learned), we would stay in Dublin our first night instead of our last night. Why you might ask? Well, after an overnight flight from Toronto to Dublin with Aer Lingus and not much sleep, it was a struggle to drive the 1.5 hours from Dublin to Cashel! A right-side drive on the left side of the road along the highway at speeds of 120km/hour, all while a wee bit jet lagged…and did I mention in a country we have never been to? Recipe for disaster – but we made it and now I would just tweak the itinerary slightly. Each day you will drive approximately 1-2 hours from journey to destination allowing time for ‘off the plan’ sight-seeing along the way…after all that is what road trips are for….getting off the beaten path!
These recommendations are for folks who enjoy unique, more intimate experiences at local bed & breakfasts instead of hotels, meeting locals and other travelers and for that authentic Ireland touch.
Cashel – The first stop on the road trip is about 2 hours (170km) from Dublin. A unique historic little town known for the Rock of Cashel. I recommend staying at the Aulber House which is on the outskirts of town, but within walking distance to town, the Rock of Cashel and Hore Abbey.
Cork – Your next stop is Cork, approximately a 1 hour drive (90km) from Cashel and is the second largest city in Ireland at ~210,000. Often referred to as the ‘real capital of Ireland’ – it’s a liberal, youthful, cosmopolitan place with a revitalized waterfront! Although it has a bit of a hipster vibe, it is still traditional with local pubs with live music, top-quality food and a warm welcoming from locals. I recommend staying at Fernroyd House, a family run B&B offering great accommodation with a personal touch. Close to the University and a 12 minute walk to the City Centre and one of the best freshly cooked breakfasts we had!
Killarney National Park – Onward to the National Park, approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes (86km) from Cork. This was the first national park in Ireland created when Muckross Estate was donated to the Irish Free State in 1932, a wee bit of history for you. This area is highlighted by expansive, rugged mountainous landscape that sweeps down to the lake shores. Its combination of mountains, lakes, woods, and waterfalls gives this an extraordinary scenic beauty like no other. I recommend getting into the heart of the National Park, staying at Friars Glen, which is a family run country house and only 4km to the town of Killarney. This also makes it the perfect spot to start the Ring of Kerry drive, going counter-clock wise – the less touristy direction!
Portmagee – Driving the Ring of Kerry heading toward this little fishing village located on the Iveragh peninusa, south of Valentia Island and the gateway to Skellig Michael, the home of the Christian monastic settlement between the 6th and 12th centuries. I recommend making the stone house of Carraig Liath House your home base, offering views of the sea, island and Kerry mountains. Within a 5-minute walk to Portmagee, you can enjoy some traditional music on Friday and Saturday nights. Staying here made me feel like I was back in Canada on our East Coast.
Tralee – Leaving Portmagee and continuing on the Ring of Kerry, passing rugged coastline and mountains toward Tralee, in approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes (80km) you will arrive in a small county town on the northern side of the Dingle Peninsula. The Dingle Peninsula is ringed by sandy beaches and craggy cliffs with rolling hills and mountains on the interior, including Mount Brandon at 951.7m high. On every trip, we opt for spending a bit more money for an experience and memory that you can still relive like it was yesterday and will be reminiscing about for many years to come. You will have that at BallySeed Castle, a 4 star, luxury castle hotel in Ireland! Feeling like a part of history, you will find yourself in elegant accommodations, with private gardens and woodlands, marble fireplaces, rooms that tell a story and fine dining with traditional Irish cuisine.
Dublin – Finally enroute back to where it all began, Dublin. This will be the longest drive of 3 hours and 30 minutes (300km) to Ireland’s capital, on the east coast at the mouth of the River Liffey. I recommend checking out The Merchant House situated in the heart of Dublin’s Old Quarter – Temple Bar. This is an ideal location to access museums, galleries, historic sites, Dublin Castle, Cathedrals and of course, endless restaurants and pubs!