December, 2014
On a hilltop, southwest of Madrid you will find the picturesque Toledo. The single thing I regret most about this day trip was not leaving earlier so we could spend more time exploring this treasure chest of churches, museums, synagogues set amongst a labyrinth of narrow streets and hidden plazas.
Honestly, Toledo is like a window of the Spanish soul. Let’s explore, shall we?
Getting to Toledo is easy from Madrid. From the main train station (Atocha), you will find high speed trains departing every hour for less than 15 euro per person. Once you arrive in Toledo (within 30 minutes of leaving Madrid), you can either walk up to the city centre or take the local bus (Bus 12) into the heart of the Old Town. Note if you walk – it will be uphill to the Old Town and will take around 40 minutes and this goes without saying, but wear comfortable shoes. The city has installed some escalators along the way which will offer some relief to the climb, but don’t be fooled it will still require some effort. Make sure to grab a map – it’s easy to get lost here.
Toledo is known as the city of three cultures due to its extensive monumental and cultural heritage. If you are just spending a day, here is what I recommend. However, I completely endorse staying overnight here instead of just a day trip and I wish I had known this in advance.
El Alcazar – You can’t miss this stone fortification as you leave the train station toward the Old Town. The foreboding Alcazar looms over the city as it sits on the highest point in the Old Town. Most of it was rebuilt between 1939 and 1957 after the Siege of the Alcazar during the Spanish Civil War. Once a Moorish fortress, it is now an enormous military museum. Due to the size, we spent a good portion of our day here learning about Spain’s military past.
Toledo Cathedral – This church can be spotted from almost every vantage point in the city and is pretty much located in the heart of the Old Town. The cathedral was built in the 13th century showcasing the finest examples of Gothic architecture with a French influence. With 750 stained glass windows, artistic side chapels, monumental alters and beautiful tapestries you will find the heart of Catholic Spain.
The Church of San Ildefonso – This Baroque style church is located in the historic centre of the city. The church is much smaller than the Cathedral and the real highlight will involve climbing the tower. This is an epic spot for sunset panoramic views of the city. It truly is a hidden gem in Toledo and honestly more impressive than some of the more famous city spots. Watching the sun dance against the medieval town at the golden hour was a highlight from this day trip.
Getting lost in the Streets – You should know by now this is one of my favourite things to do. The farther you get away from the Cathedral the bigger the incline the hilltop becomes, but you will also begin to stray away from the crowds. The best part of this – is having the beautiful medieval streets to yourself. Explore all the way to visit the old city walls and bridges. The Puerta de Bisagra is the gateway to the city offering a restored stone gate originally from the 9th century. For views of the River Targus that surrounds this majestic city head to the Puente de San Martin for epic views. For the best city view, head over the Puente de Alcantara to the other side of Rio Tajo and head along the road that rises toward your right. This is where the vista becomes more marvelous with every step you take.
I recommend the Bar Restaurante Ludena for the menu of the day. Grab a table in the courtyard if you can and order the menu of the day which is a bargain for less than 15 euro a person. I can’t say enough amazing things about the venison stew – so tender and melted in your mouth like butter. You will find lots of locals eating here. It is reasonably priced and delicious and a more authentic vibe from some of the other tourist spots.
La Ermita – If you are looking to treat yourself with a superb medieval Toledo panoramic view then I suggest making a reservation here. When making a reservation, you will want to request a window seat and you will need to take a Taxi from the Old Town to get here. The view is incredible and the food is just as outstanding as the view. The suckling pig and scallop dishes were incredible. This was my gastronomic highlight of my trip to Spain and if you are visiting Toledo, please add this place to your list. Add the dessert tasting platter to round off your meal, trust me you won’t regret it. Linger here enjoying the view and savour the impeccable food. Again, reservations are critical as window seats are primo during the golden hour as is the night dining when Toledo is magically glowing from the night lights off the balcony perched on the opposite bank of the river.
