December, 2018
Using Florence as a home base, it is easy to explore the Tuscan region and get into the smaller medieval towns south of Florence. Siena is known for its old-fashioned brick buildings, the fan-shaped central square, the Gothic town hall and of course, the Torre del Mangia. It is a short bus ride taking the rapida (fast bus), which is non-stop to this mysterious town within 1 hour and 15 minutes. We chose the AirBnB in Florence for its proximity to the bus and train stations (<10 minutes) for quick day trips like these.
Piazza del Campo is at the heart of town and from here you are within walking distance to all the sights and yes, Siena is best discovered on foot. Being in Siena, under the Tuscan sun is something you see in a postcard. When I close my eyes and remember this day, I think of sitting at a restaurant in a cobblestone piazza in the heart of the city, with a plate of pasta and a glass of Tuscan red wine, with the Tuscan sun bathing us and the surrounding historical buildings.
If you want this view, then you will need to work for it, climbing 400+ steps to the top of Torre del Mangia. Not for the faint hearted, but worth every step. Taking in the entirety of this town, you can easily plan your day from up here. Perhaps the black and white cathedral of the Duomo, Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, Centro Storico di Siena, or the Facciatone which has one of the city’s most panoramic view points. Your sight-seeing list is truly never-ending. From here, you can also visit the Sienna City Hall and the Civic Museum offering a unique history lesson into Italy’s government.
If Campo is the heart of Siena, then the Duomo is the soul. This basilica is visible for miles and you cannot miss the white and black stripes, which is lavished with statues and mosaics. Taking a tour inside will feel like you’ve entered an art museum with works of Michelangelo, Bernini, and Donatello. Be prepared that there will be lines with so many people!
Throughout Siena you will find steep lanes and streets that are far from straight making it easy to get lost. However, that’s the beauty of being on vacation – allowing yourself to get lost without any real rush to be found. This medieval paradise takes on a different vibe as dusk falls, as the street lights offer hues of gold decorating the streets. The best part of Siena is that most of the streets only allow for pedestrians as it is ringed with a medieval wall. This truly allows you to soak in all the beauty without watching for cars. Slowing down, take time to venture in and out of all the specialty shops offering boar prosciutto, divine olive oils & balsamic vinegars, home-made biscotti, and vintage Chianti.
For lunch, I recommend grabbing a table on the patio in the Campo to soak in the sun and views. We grabbed a table on the patio at Alla Speranza, allowing us to soak in the piazza splendor and some home-made pasta. Trust me though you will pay for the view – that’s what you get in the heart of the city. If you can get off to one of the side winding alley streets, you will find cheaper prices and quality food perhaps without a terrace or view though. If you are on a budget, you can easily find a pizza for €5 and coffee for under €2 on the side streets.
For dinner, consider Zest – Siena’s hidden secret. It’s the perfect spot offering views of the cathedral across the valley. My type of place, sipping fine wine and sharing small plates with the one you love. Could an evening really be any better than this? We recommend the savoury tart filled with leek, Gorgonzola cheese and caramelized onions along with the selection of daily appetizers & Tuscan cold meats. Pair that with a mouth-watering Chianti red and you will want to linger longer in the twilight of this magical moment.
Prior to leaving, we stumbled across a winter Christmas market offering unique food vendors, artisans and a skating rink in the heart of the market. We toured the market like locals and decided to lace up some skates, making it feel more like a Canadian winter in Italy. A fun surprise to end the day.