May, 2006
There are so many places I love, but France – you can never go wrong with France. If you know me, you know my heart and soul is never in the big city…to me, a big city is a big city anywhere in the world. What I truly appreciate are the smaller towns. This is a jewel in a natural setting of utmost beauty – this quaint little wine town stole my heart. A quick half an hour trip from Bordeaux makes this a must-do day trip. This medieval town overlooks the Dordogne valley and is built in the shape of an amphitheatre. The magnificent architecture, the delectable food, and the delightful taste of wine – this little picture-perfect French town is heaven on earth for foodies and wine lovers. Let’s explore, shall we?
There is no better way to spend a day in wine country, than wandering through narrow cobblestone streets admiring the buildings, hills, vineyards, chateaus and cafés. The entire town is like an outdoor museum, with history spanning 13 centuries – sure you can book a guided tour, but I recommend just slowly discovering it on your own. To truly experience this town, it is best explored on foot.
As you explore and wander, the Porte de la Cadene is one of the most picture-perfect spots. This arched gateway is the ideal frame for the 68m bell tower of the Monolithic Church. The gate is situated at the top of a steep cobbled lane connecting the upper and lower towns. The Maison Cadene sits just inside the gate and is the only timbered building left in Saint-Émilion. If you look, you can find a bunch of grapes adorning the bottom of the house, reflecting the wine-making heritage that this town is known for.
Although I know I just mentioned exploring the town on your own, you can only visit the Monolithic Church with a guided tour. For a truly exclusive experience, you will want to set aside some time for the discovery of the underground heritage of this little town. A church carved out of a single block of stone where you will have the opportunity to immerse yourself in ancient pilgrimage exploring the Trinity Chapel, the Hermitage of Émilion, medieval paintings and the catacombs. It is possible that at one time, Émilion’s body was laid here, underneath a dome that opened, way above where we stood, but he has long since gone missing without even a relic for the church to display. You certainly don’t want to miss the bell tower which offers breathtaking 360-degree views. With 199 stairs, the unparalleled views of Saint-Émilion is worth it and if you know me it will justify the treat later – Champagne!
Famous for its Grand Cru wines, this town is one of the largest winemakers of the Bordeaux region with 5400 hectares of vineyards with 13 Premiers Grands Crus classes and 55 Grands Crus classes. During your visit, you must see at least one of the cellars sometimes dug out of solid rock where thousands of prestigious bottles of wine are kept. We ventured to Les Cordeliers – where they make Cremant de Bordeaux, Champagne. The Les Cordeliers convent dates back to the 14th century where the underground caves maintain a constant temperature of 12°C which is a welcome respite during the summer. There are 10km of caves, but only 3km are used to house 1 million bottles, stored and turned multiple times by hand to perfect the taste. Of course, after the tour we sampled and sipped a refreshing glass of Cremant, hung our cork with blue ribbon in the tree for good luck – the perfect way to end this visit. If the tour is not on your list, it is free to enter where you can enjoy the picnic benches in the garden and a perfect spot to have a glass of bubbles along with a charcuterie plate – fuel for the rest of your day!
Leaving Les Cordeliers, make your way toward Porte Brunet, a quiet residential area. It’s at this gate where you will find some of Saint-Émilion’s fortifications. Here they were once connected by six gates and several defensive towers. Unfortunately, most of the ramparts were later destroyed in the 16th and 19th centuries. Once you enter from Port Brunet, follow the road to the lower town. Along the way you will come across two natural springs that were turned into wash houses – a social affair spot to get caught up on the town’s gossip.
Make your way to Chateau du Roy, the King’s tower, which is the only intact keep in the department of Gironde, and which served as a town hall until 1720. It is the only remains of what is believed to have been the King’s castle and this fortress, the symbol of royal power within the walls of the free town. If you still have some energy, climbing the 118 stairs to the top affords a spectacular view of vineyards, the town and beyond. Marvel in the view taking a deep breath looking onto the vineyards as that feeling of “how blessed am I?” for this moment comes over you.
From the top of the tower, you can easily see the crumbling Ursuline’s Convent. Here, 18 nuns lived, offering free schooling to the girls of the village who could not afford education. The sisters were the ones to bring the recipe of the Saint-Émilion macaron to life and this simple tradition lives on more than 400 years later. Although the convent was abandoned after being seized by the government during the French Revolution, the macaron recipe was saved. The climb to the top of the tower is worth savoring these delicate, tender and sweet classic cookies later. Now, take note that the original is nothing like the modern version we have all come to know…these have no filing and no colorful additions, but trust me you won’t be disappointed as they melt in your mouth.
