December, 2016
We departed Cascais by bus to Sintra on the direct bus line (417), which takes approximately 40 minutes and costs €2. Arriving later than we anticipated due to our extended stay in Cascais, we had a bit of a walk with our luggage, in the dark, to our Air BnB. Seriously, thank goodness for carry-ons! It truly is the only way to travel – take only what you need for the trip!
This was the final leg of our Portuguese trifecta – Lisbon, Cascais and now Sintra. I booked the most epic Air BnB – a vintage, yet chic romantic cottage as they call it, which was 100% accurate. I loved this place and could live happily ever after here, in this magical fairytale town. Carole was a lovely host who brought us fresh bread from a local bakery, her home-made jam, granola, yogurt and eggs every night, for breakfast the next morning. We settled in for the next 3 nights in this stone cottage retreat, which is located on their property, but completely separate, so entirely private. The view is incredible and located in the perfect spot. Honestly, if you are coming to Sintra please check out her properties – you won’t regret it.
We were absolutely starving from the earlier bike ride and travel so we ventured into town for dinner. We decided on Loja do Vinho, a rustic charming place right in the centre of town. Unfortunately, it was already late so we sat indoors. However, the outdoor seating area is lovely and has a great view of the old town. I would highly recommend it for lunch! There is an extensive wine menu and the selections on the menu range from snacks, soup, sandwiches, shared cheese-meat-olive boards and a variety of other small plates. A delicious choice to share some food and have a glass of wine or two to unwind from the day.
Sintra truly is as magical as it looks in all the photos and is an easy day trip from Lisbon, but I recommend staying here to truly immerse yourself in this romance. This will give you the time to stop, enjoy and explore. From gardens to castles, the architecture is breathtakingly beautiful. There are lots of hills to access the castles, so pick the proper footwear! We found this beautiful nature trail (steep in many sections) to access the castles. It was definitely a workout and I recommend it if you are active and want a challenge – remember your reward are the Natas and Port later! There are also lots of Tuk-Tuks throughout the town, willing to take you to and from the castles. They are safe, but certainly negotiate the price before you hop on. All the places we visited were within walking distance from our Air BnB.
The Castle of the Moors – It is truly a medieval castle located high on a hilltop. Constructed during the 9th century, it was designed to act as a guard for Sintra below. Now it is in relative ruin, but you can still walk the walls, explore the keep and just take in all its majesty. From the highest viewpoints, you can take in a panoramic view of Sintra and also the Pena Palace to the other side. Although, the Pena Palace is higher than this castle, it is the Castle of the Moors that truly offers the uninterrupted view of the town. Trust me, the climbing and walking is worth the views.
Pena Palace – Here it is – that dream fairytale castle, full of vibrant colors and unique architecture like you have never seen. However, this place is beyond that of just a castle, which is why you will want to spend an entire day here exploring the grounds. The natural landscape, Parque de Pena, is massive and you can find trails for walking, ponds, fountains and exotic plants. It’s impressive and one of the best ways to spend part of the day in nature. Pena Palace is one of the most famous places and most visited monuments, but with popularity also comes crowds. So, plan your timing accordingly and I recommend early morning or later in the day. Another perk of traveling in the off season; December 28 was the perfect day to take in this site with minimal people compared to the high season. After you have explored the park and gardens, make your way up to the castle to soak in the 19th century romanticism architecture and the colorful towers. There is so much history to learn inside these walls.
National Palace of Sintra – One of the most accessible palaces located in the heart of the old town centre – no hills required for this one! Once home to the Portuguese Royal Family, you will find different architectural styles including Moorish and Gothic. This palace has the most ornate rooms and you will want to take in the Swan Room, the Arab Room and the Chapel for sure. This palace is also located right beside the Natural History Museum, if that is of interest. Although, it doesn’t offer the views, it is still worth exploring.
Montserrate Palace – This palace is often overlooked as it is located ~3.5km outside of the city centre, but is truly a hidden gem. The best news is it is smaller and typically less crowded than the other castles. The mansion is unique blending Gothic, Arabic and Indian architecture even though it was actually created as a summer residence for an Englishman named Sir Francis Cook. Since it is located outside of the centre, it offers stunning views of rolling hills and pristine gardens. It is truly one of the best palaces to explore in Sintra, you won’t regret it.
Quinta da Regaleira – One of my favourite treasures on this trip. Now you might be beginning to understand why you need more than one day to truly experience this mesmerizing area. This spot is also located outside of town ~2km and is worth the walk with only a few small hills. It is well known for its gardens, where you will find hidden tunnels, towers, secret doors and passageways. You will truly feel like you stepped into a fairytale book as these gardens are full of enchantment and surprises at every turn. The Initiation Well is located on this property – interestingly they were never intended for water, but instead these mysterious underground towers were used for secretive initiation rites. Add this to your itinerary to get lost in the gardens, the secrets, and the gorgeous estate and chapel. Honestly this is the perfect spot to pause for an afternoon snack or picnic!
Another reason to stay here instead of making it a day trip from Lisbon, is for the food. You will want to explore the sites, but also take in the cultural cuisine, especially after walking to all these places. Here are some of our recommendations.
Romaria de Baco – This charming place was located literally around the corner from our AirBnB and was recommended by our hosts. Aside from our Christmas Dinner in Lisbon, this was the best meal we had on this trip. Offering a selection of Mediterranean cuisine with flavors of Portugal and a solid wine selection from the cellar. It is a small boutique place located outside of the main square. I recommend reservations in advance. Honestly, it will be a meal you won’t forget.
Case das Minas – We actually stumbled across this place on our walk home from Moors Castle, which was a bit hidden compared to other spots along the way. Truly a magical little place offering views of Sintra and the Palace. The menu is simple, but the price is good value, making it a perfect little spot for lunch.
Tasca do Xico – Located right in the heart of old town you will find this restaurant. We grabbed lunch on the patio as the weather was lovely, but inside was absolutely darling. I was hesitant at first, thinking it would be touristy, expensive, with poor service and only ok food due to the location. However, I will admit I was wrong…it was perfect! We each had one of the best salads on this trip – everything was delicious, service was great and a complimentary shot of Port was included with our meal. That may have won me over. I also think this may have been the tallest and largest beer D has ever had on any of our trips!
Binhoteca – I recommend visiting this little wine bar while you are here. There are some wine bars close to the main square, which are a bit more touristy and pricey, but this is a little gem on a side street. Our host here took the time to educate us on the mysteries of Port and provided an amazing tasting, pairing it with cheese and chocolate. We had some of the most epic Port here and tasted the most divine sample of a 70-year-old Port. It is a supreme way to spend an afternoon chatting with the locals, hanging out, learning about Port and of course, sampling some flights.
Cantinho Gourmet – This was our final spot for dinner before flying home the next day. It’s a family owned restaurant that serves craft beer. It is located on a quintessential winding street in Sintra where D and I shared a cheese and meat board. I can’t even begin to describe to you the taste of the Port jelly that came on this board to enhance the cheese flavours. We grabbed some to pack ever so delicately for the flight home in our carry-ons! In glass bottles, I was destined to ensure these made it safely back home to enjoy on one of my own cheese boards, as reminder of this trip. I swear I dream of going back just for this jelly.
