December, 2016
Portugal had been on my ‘to see list’ for some time and we finally booked a trip in February, 2016 to travel over Christmas that year. Don’t worry, the weather was perfect for our trip – not too hot and not too cold with so much sunshine! While we were waiting at the Toronto airport for our flight I was looking through a magazine that stated ‘Portugal was rated as one of the top European destinations for 2016’. I think my excitement went up a notch after reading this article. To say I fell in love with Portugal was an understatement. This magical little place stole a piece of my soul forever.
We rented a quaint Air BnB in the most perfection location. We took the Metro from the airport to a stop within 10 minutes walking distance of our Air BnB, which is doable with carry-on luggage. This location was ideal as it was close to a metro and close to the Time Out Market – and I absolutely love a good market. If you are new to Air BnB you can use this coupon to save up to $70 CDN off your first stay. We love to feel more like locals when we travel and occasionally opt for dinners in, attempting to cook some of the local cuisine (or at least have fun trying). This was hands down one of my favorite Air BnBs from all of my trips and it’s located on the top floor without a lift (elevator), so it helps burn the calories from all the Natas you may indulge in. Or maybe that was just me?
Lisbon is a great city for walking and is commonly referred to as the City of Seven Hills, so be prepared for a workout. We spent the majority of our time walking, but it also has a great metro system and trams that are user-friendly. Our first 3 days of this trip were spent here which was a perfect length of time to explore the city.
Since we were flying from Canada, the flight is overnight, arriving in Europe in the morning or by lunch time at the latest. We typically power through that day without a nap and try to go as long as possible to get adjusted to the time change. On night one, we found this little place for a Port tasting and it was one of my favorite memories from this trip. Just around the corner from our Air BnB, we stumbled across it! It’s so unfortunate that I cannot recall the name, but I do recall it is on Rua de Sao Paulo, one of Libson’s steepest streets. It was absolutely divine. Also, the ideal night cap before finally crashing into bed from jet-lag and travel exhaustion!
The Ascensor da Bica is a railway line that connects Rua de Sae Paulo and Largo do Calhariz along one of the steepest hills in Lisbon. It is worthwhile climbing if you are able and offers some of the most well-known photo ops in Libson. You can also ride the funicular up or down as it runs approximately every 15 minutes. Once you are near the bottom in the Cais do Sodre area, you will find the Time Out Market close by!
Time Out Market – This truly is the best of the city under one roof. Less than 10 minutes from our Air BnB was this wonderful place located in the historic Mercado da Ribeira in Cais do Sodre. We frequented this market a few times on this trip to grab local supplies from meat, cheese, and produce vendors, but also to experience the flavours from some of the country’s top chefs within the two dozen restaurant stalls. This is also where we picked up a 30-year-old bottle of Port that traveled with us via backpack for the entire trip for our daily night-cap! One of the best decisions on this trip! Pair that up with Natas from the local bakery and it is an impeccable way to end a long day.
Sao Jorge Castle – We ventured up this way twice as it was unfortunately closed Christmas Eve, but open Christmas Day. This Moorish fort is a worthwhile climb to provide some great history and views of the city. Getting there is part of the fun, navigating small alleys, shops, and boutiques along the way in the Alfama neighborhood. I honestly felt like I could have just spent the day touring each side-street taking in the history and architecture, soaking in the retro vibe. This is the oldest part of Lisbon where you will find endless tiled buildings from this castle to the Tagus River. I recommend getting there before opening to avoid lines for tickets and crowds. Walking along the castle walls, the views are the finest part of this visit.
Miradouro da Graca – Located approximately 10 minutes from the Castelo you will find this popular terrace which offers dramatic views of the city rooftops and the Tagus river. You can also get a picturesque photo of the Castelo from this vantage point. From here just explore this Alfama neighborhood wandering and getting lost. Make your way back downhill, keeping an eye out for a terrace or restaurant that speaks to you and grab lunch there. The options are endless and get onto the side streets to truly find the hidden gems! I recommend checking out the Portas Do Sol for a sunset cocktail, which is known for its view of the river while you watch the setting sun dazzle off the famous Alfama rooftops.
Rua Augusta – Explore Lisbon’s main pedestrian street where you will find outdoor cafes, street artists and lots of bakeries! You will want to try some authentic baked goods along the way! We picked up the most glorious cinnamon-pecan sweet bread to make French toast on Christmas morning, and it was heavenly. Make sure you grab a gelato from the Amorino Baixa, which has been stated as offering the best gelato in Lisbon. The street will open to Comerico Square through the triumphal arch where there is a terrace at the top offering a 360 degree panoramic view of Lisbon. You will also find plenty of lunch or dinner options along here, but if you go over a street or two you will find less touristy spots at reasonable prices. We found a superb lunch at Beher Lisboa, close by, choosing a delectable ham and cheese platter paired with wine. It was the perfect afternoon of Spain tapas while in Portugal.
Santa Justa Lift – This is an outdoor elevator just off the Rua Augusta that connects the lower streets of Baixa to the upper Carmo Square. Now a tourist attraction, it offers unique views of the city, the river and San Jorge Castle.
Belem – This is a laid-back area located right on the river. Easily accessible via a quick train ride right from the Cais do Sodre station, or electric tram number 15. You will want to block part of a day to explore this area. You will want time to explore Jeronimos Monastery, which is now a world heritage site. You can visit the main chapel for free where you will find the tomb of Vasco de Gama. This Monastery offers diverse architecture and the Church of Santa Maria is worth exploring. From here, make your way to the Monument of Discoveries, which is a huge stone caravel built by the architect Cottinelli Telmo and the sculptor Leopoldo de Almeida. Climbing to the top offers a unique view of the Praca do Imperio, where you can see how the navigators set sail from this point to explore the world’s oceans. Finally, make your way to the Torre de Belem, which was used to guard Lisbon’s harbor. It is one of those iconic monuments with Manueline style of architecture. Check the operating hours for when you are visiting as they are limited and will stay busy from opening to closing. Honestly, the real attraction is the exterior stone carving and there are some good views from the top of the fort, but the view from the Monument of Discoveries is better in my opinion. Your last stop will be the Pasteis de Belem, which is a bakery in Belem where you should definitely pick up some Natas for your trip back to Lisbon. Apparently noted for the best tasting Natas in Lisbon, so you will want to weather the line to see for yourself.
Finally, make time to eat your way around Lisbon. It truly is a food-lovers’ paradise offering something for everyone including sweet pastries, seafood dishes, cheese, wine and Port. As already mentioned the Time out Market is one of my favorites as it allowed me to try tapas, main courses and desserts from such a variety of vendors. A true opportunity to explore the flavors and cuisine of this country. We stayed in for Christmas Eve and created a charcuterie board from local finds at the market. You can certainly grab items here for a picnic in one of Libson’s many green spaces, including the Parque Eduardo VII, a public park covering 64 acres, or any of the local squares. You will often find locals sitting in squares enjoying lunch, especially when it is sunny.
Populi – A more touristy place in the Praca do Comerico square, but a nice spot to grab lunch on the patio with views of the river and plenty of people watching. We had lunch Christmas Day here, sampling some Portuguese tapas and sipping on wine in the glorious sunshine. Overly-touristic places will subsequently result in overpriced menus. Despite the prices, it was a lovely afternoon.
Bairro Alto Hotel – We splurged for dinner Christmas Day at this 5-star hotel and to our surprise, it was quite busy that night. Dinner was divine and a relatively short walk from our Air BnB. We both had the beef loin with garlic puree and chard. It was cooked to perfection and paired deliciously with roasted carrots fresh from the Algarve and the sweet potato puree with honey and aged Portuguese Brandy. We shared these sides with our main course and a bottle of red wine. Finishing the night, we shared a platter of the Portuguese cheese with some exceptional Port. Hands down the most expensive meal we had on this trip and a Christmas dinner to remember forever… worth every penny.
Wine not – A cozy wine bar with terrific tapas located in the Chiado district. Some great wine selection from the Casa Ermalinda Freitas and specializing in an array of small plates to share. If you are venturing here, check out the puff pastry with chevre and rosemary drizzled with honey if it is still on the menu.
Madame Bacchus – Another wine bar located in a great area. Warm and welcoming place with excellent tapas and great wine. A perfect spot to grab lunch.
Taberna da Rua das Flores – I highly recommend this place, which is small and cozy with elegant charm. It is a hidden gem in the heart of Lisbon and is located off of a busy plaza. The wines are generous pours and budget friendly. The menu is unique and comes in small plates so you can sample multiple items. Cheers.